#99562  by WoodyZ
 Fri Sep 11, 2015 7:20 pm
Funnily enough, I don't mind "jumping on the roof top and cleaning panels" as they are not the only things that need cleaning up there, not to mention being up there allows me to just check everything else that's up there.

We do have significant amounts of pollen and dust settle on the whole roof including the panels and I am having difficulty seeing how any flash coating would mitigate that.
 #99563  by scubadoo
 Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:27 pm
I concur with Neil.

Climbed my non NZ Standard :shock: telescopic ladder to check the roof area this morning. First look in perhaps 2 months of full time travel. No effort required.
My non NZ Standard solar, regular glass covered $1/W, glued only :shock: setup up all looked perfect with no cleaning required and the 8 gauge non UV or solar rated :shock: (100% panel shaded) wiring is still doing its job perfectly.
No pollen, bird stuff etc. Last nights Southerly storm may have helped.
The glued aluminium mounting brackets :shock: all look as original and not yet ready to part company with the roof. What - no screws?
The retracted East facing satellite dish casting no shadow on the panels at 8am.

I'm obviously doing it all very wrong. ;)
 #99564  by muzzanic
 Fri Sep 11, 2015 8:48 pm
Well I'm adding a new 330w solar panel, ( brought off Steve & with the latest tech ) to my mother in laws Camper van tomorrow.

It will bring them up to 430w total, So will be much better for there trips away.

Like us they have a 12v only fridge, So will make a big difference on there trips away.

I totally get why people don't see the need for the latest tech in solar, When what they have is working well for them.

However when you are starting from scratch & it cost so little more, Why not.

Murray
 #99575  by idex
 Fri Sep 11, 2015 10:10 pm
Thanks for that link Steve. That's interesting reading but I'm not too sure that the small efficiency gains would be of much practical significance for us. We have no problem replacing our overnight power usage during sunny days but in overcast, wintry conditions it's a different story.
 #99578  by lorry26
 Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:25 am
Is this not what Steve has stated is PEW. and can only be done by a Registered Electrician who must offer
a COC. IEC. Documents etc., which the owner must advise of the any alterations PV. 12V. or 230V. and make available
all associated paperwork to the Electrical Inspector at the next WoEF. ?

'Well I'm adding a new 330w solar panel, ( brought off Steve & with the latest tech ) to my mother in laws Camper van tomorrow'
 #99581  by muzzanic
 Sat Sep 12, 2015 8:29 am
lorry26 wrote:Is this not what Steve has stated is PEW. and can only be done by a Registered Electrician who must offer
a COC. IEC. Documents etc., which the owner must advise of the any alterations PV. 12V. or 230V. and make available
all associated paperwork to the Electrical Inspector at the next WoEF. ?'
I'm sure it is, None of which will be a problem as I have many friends in the trade for checking things & sign off.

The areas that I'm yet to nail down is that because the 100w system went to the starter battery & then the VSR puts the excess power into the house battery, If that can be called a stand alone system ( but not sure it can , because of the link with the VSR )

The system in it will remain 100% un touched.

So a grey area to be worked through.

Murray
 #99592  by Neddy
 Sat Sep 12, 2015 10:58 am
This thread has gone completely off the rails and the question posed by the original poster has been lost sIght of.

Landlubber simply wants our ideas on how much solar power he should fit. His confusion has been exacerbated by different retailers offering very different opinions and pedalling different products. It can be difficult to differentiate between the various competing claims and it is all too easy for naive buyers to be influenced by advertising hype. One retailer might offer panels with "state-of-the-art, new, innovative technologies". Another might promise "Latest Generation Ultra High Efficiency Panels" with "high spec ARC (Anti-Reflective Self-Cleaning) glass" resulting in "4% more panel efficiency" and so on. So, what is the end result of all this "new" technology?
Answer :- Panels of around 18% efficiency - that's much the same as most other manufacturers.
Should you need them, real high-efficiency panels are available with efficiencies in excess of 22%.

Generally speaking, the relative efficiency of different solar panel brands is of little consequence.
Higher efficiency panels are only marginally smaller than lower efficiency panels of the same power output and in most cases the difference is quite insignificant.

Don't be influenced by any retailer's advertising hype.

Neville.
 #99598  by landlubbers
 Sat Sep 12, 2015 2:28 pm
Landlubber back here again, been doing a lot of reading and my head is swimming :D I have come to the conclusion by reading chit chat, info on websites and talking to a couple of retailers that I do need to upgrade my panels. I have just one query which I have not yet found the answer to... there is a 150 watt solar panel, 18 volt, 8.33 amps. A second panel is 160 watt, 30.2 volts and 5.30 amps. They are both mono crystalline solar panels. My question is, why so much difference in the voltages and amps? and which would you recommend and why?
Pay with Paymate Express