Forum rules: Each member may record the build progress on their own thread. You may comment on others' threads but do not take them over with your own stories. Please try to ensure these threads are entertaining and snappy. You are welcome to include a few pics.
 #129313  by maccasparks
 Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:09 pm
I used Bostik Industrial Adhesive to stick ply to metal frame - just braced it with lengths of timber overnight.
As far as wiring it does not need to be seen by an Electrical Inspector before lining but does need to be done or supervised by the Electrician who is sign the Certificate of Compliance . I left my old frame bonding cable in place and installed a new one that was visible and accessible from under the floor where it bolted on to the Chassis
That is only for the 230V mains wiring. I used 230V rated cable for my 12V equipment so they can be run together just make sure its large enough to handle the volt drop
Your sparky mate will be able to source the ASNZS Standards if they are currently Licensed - they need to know it if they are signing it off although its pretty straight forward.


Also as recommended by Vansvilla I have sealed the area below the bed that is accessed from the hatch with leftover caravan ply. Didn't bother with holes in bottom as the hob is connected with a flexible hose that can only be attached to bottle with the hatch open.
Last edited by maccasparks on Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
 #129331  by RaymonD
 Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:07 pm
maccasparks wrote: I used 230V rated cable for my 12V equipment so they can be run together
is this ok, I always thought that 230vac and dc cabling should or has ? to be run separately.
 #129367  by maccasparks
 Sun Jun 25, 2017 10:03 pm
Na that's fine as far as regulations go ( ASNZS 3000 3.9.8.3) as long as the cables are double insulated and rated to the highest voltage present . I only did it for lighting but would not recommend it for any sensitive electronic equipment
 #137050  by maccasparks
 Sun Jan 21, 2018 4:52 pm
Been chipping away on the old Vagabond in between taking in on a few runs and work. Installed a stereo and shelf above big window with speakers.

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Also found some neat folding brackets that we put a chopping board onto to extend the bench space or as a little table.


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Finally started on the exterior , replacing an aluminium panel above the big front window that had a bit of corrosion in it. Removed it , treated a bit of surface rust in the steel frame, primed and painted the steel then installed the new 0.9mm panel using Bostik adhesive/sealant to separate the two metals and seal behind the rivets. That product works really well and if it didn't have holes from old rivets would've only glued it back on.

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Now starting to sand the roof for a paint job doing one side at a time so I can leave one solar module in place to keep the fridge running,
The 2 x 150w and 2x 100AH setup has been awesome - fridge been on for 18 months now and never used an external charger.
 #137058  by Nut17
 Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:44 pm
With the complete ground - up rebuild this is going to be a pretty cool rig when completed. Well done :TU

Cheers
Chris
 #143392  by maccasparks
 Sun Aug 05, 2018 10:27 am
The cost is not bad as it's DIY , time is the big one. How bout you start a post on " Build Stories" so we can follow your progress ?
Good luck with rebuild!
 #150052  by IsaacO
 Tue Mar 26, 2019 9:45 pm
Hi there,

I'll start off by saying what a great job you have done with your caravan. I am about to embark on a very similar project and am wondering if you are still about on the forum or if anyone else can help. I am after the steel framing members the same profile as existing, to reinforce the cieling my 17ft liteweight chevron. Have a serious sag in the roof that needs fixing before I move on. Appreciate any help anyone could offer.

Kind regards.
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