#97606  by NeilV
 Sun Aug 02, 2015 10:28 pm
So as my build approaches its first legal test, what should I check or do before its conversion COF...

Less than a year ago it was a national bus company owned and maintained schoolbus
Rust is minimal to non existent as the panels are aluminium, the roof is fibreglass, and the chassis has been fully protection painted /protectedat factory original.
Engine runs well and emissions are factory default for age (same age/model bus I drive for school flies through- though needed tired last round as does over 500km/w)

Know 'faults' are hydraulics take up to 5 mins to charge up, and the one hydraulic tank leaks air when stopped - empty in 10 mins (though only affects door when NOT driving) and
Windscreen has minor (4-5cm) chip/crack on lower drivers corner, below visual range unless standing in front seat Looking down [intend fixing once road driveable]

Anything others have been pulled up for that's worth checking?
Is there a known minimum underside clearance requirement? I may have lowered the bus by around 5cm when bracing my tanks and running drainage for example...

Is the 'pretest' worthwhile if I'm not a TSL who care about COF records? (Eg if they find minor rust an issue once, will they always check flagged area more carefully?)
 #97611  by BUSRSQ
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 4:00 am
Windscreen is an instant fail, crack is to long regardless of where it is
make sure your "paperwork" for the conversion is correct
make sure berths=seatbelted seats
should be sweet other than that
 #97615  by NeilV
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:42 am
BUSRSQ wrote:Windscreen is an instant fail, crack is to long regardless of where it is
make sure your "paperwork" for the conversion is correct
make sure berths=seatbelted seats
should be sweet other than that
Can get the crack fixed before I guess

Births and belts are correct, what paperwork do I need to do though?
 #97623  by BUSRSQ
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:06 am
the crack is outside of what glass places are legally allowed to fix
there may not be any paperwork as such but go prepared
I would take a weighbridge docket with front rear and total weights on it ,also any certs from electrical, gas Installations
Certs for seat/seatbelt mounts if they are not factory
just anything that may hold back the process ,will also impress the inspector which may make it all the more easier
oh and a good attitude
 #97637  by roger
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:15 pm
Get any crack and chips repaired prior to COF, MH or not this applies. Windscreen specialist will advise if repair will be acceptable for COF.
Air leak may be a problem, the air capacity is checked at the COF test. Also there must be two air gauges to monitor both air circuits and they will check operation to ensure both gauges are independent, ie when one side is discharged the other side stays up.
MH spacific,
All seat belts fitted must be lap and diagonal NZ standard, even the drivers original factory lap and diagonal belt, and will need certificates from approved installer.
Any MH passenger seat fixings will need a certificates from a approved installer.
You need a fixed bed and sink minimum to pass as a MH.
Any tanks etc fitted under will required a good engineering fixing method like steel angle and rod, tank floor can be treated ply min 12mm thick.
Been through this for 12 of my conversions.
roger
 #97639  by NeilV
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:45 pm
Thanks Roger,

Seat belts certs are in progress... struggling to find one long enough for the 'pedestal' seat in a 90's bus though...tips on this?

air gauges are good, and maintain pressure well whenever the bus is running, for at least 10mins after turning off too, so should be ok?
I now have 4 beds, and 5 cert'able seatbelt positions, sink, shower, basin gas hob etc. so fine there too... obviously a motorhome now :)
Tanks have exactly that, steel angle iron and 10mm stainless threaded rods, locknuts on both ends (that was the queiry on minimum clearance requirement)
Last edited by Mark on Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:48 pm, edited 1 time in total. Reason: Redundant quote of immediately prior post.
 #97641  by BUSRSQ
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:48 pm
As long as the air system takes less than 90 seconds to "recover" from buzzer to full air then should not be an issue,
If the air leak is audible then it may be a fail, sounds like as only the door is affected that it is on an auxiliary tank/s, these should be separated from the main tanks by hold back valves, sounds to me like yours maybe faulty ( main tanks should keep full pressure even if air dumped from aux tank)
As for minimum clearance I know on Cars it is 100mm so I am guessing HV will be similar
 #97656  by NeilV
 Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:07 pm
I actually LIKE that the door becomes free to open when not driving as it saves reaching up (for me) or over the drivers seat (for kids) to be able to open and exit the bus... We have manual locks fitted for security, esp as it still has the 'emergency' open switch right outside the door.

Air leak is audible when engine off, but only the door is affected so definitely auxiliary... Other tanks hold pressure indefinitely... Still a fail?
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